So what is Brooklyn food? In her 1991 book, The Brooklyn Cookbook, Lyn Stallworth
writes that what defines Brooklyn food is ‘in short, attitude and memory. The Brooklyn
attitude is, “You respect me, I’ll respect you; but believe me - my neighborhood, and my food, is best.” Memory ensures that the stories of good times, and the food that made them so, are passed along to younger family members.” We were thrilled to come across a used copy of this “community cookbook” which profiles Brooklyn’s eateries and immigrant communities through family recipes. It’s full of reminiscences from old-time Brooklyn celebrities like Danny Kaye and Al Lewis (Grandpa on “The Munsters”). Norman Mailer shares his recipe for a gin and tonic. But more interesting, it features recipes from locals; immigrants or their descendants sharing stories about family dishes. Arthur Schwartz, cookbook author, food editor and restaurant critic talks about how entire blocks of Flatbush, Borough Park and Bensonhurst smelled of pot roast and kasha on Friday afternoons. And did you know Atlantic Avenue was known as ‘the Swedish Broadway’ back in 1874?

Some recipe highlights: Esperanza Fuentes’ Pipian Verde, Peter Luger’s German Fried Potatoes, Weeksville Tea Cakes, Bamonte’s Grilled Scampi, Bunny Pollack’s Sauerbraten, Dolly De Simone’s Tripe President Street Style, Rae Dayan’s Sambusak, Karelian Pirirakka (Finnish savory pies), Margaret Palca’s Chocolate-Filled Rugelah, Baked Indian Pudding from the Wyckoff House, Arbos (Pickled Watermelon), and Luis Loyola’s Mofongo with Chicken Broth.

We’re sorry to have missed Stallworth’s talk earlier this year on Brooklyn’s food legacy.
Is anyone out there working on an updated edition of The Brooklyn Cookbook?

The Brooklyn Cookbook by Lyn Stallworth and Rod Kennedy, Jr., Alfred A. Knopf, 1991.

Originally published on Until Monday: Brooklyn