Sara Hohn – Food… Brooklyn & Beyond

Lightness, contrast of flavors and textures, balance, freshness, and the perfect
combination of sweet, salt and heat are what to look for in a báhn mì sandwich, also known as the Vietnamese hoagie. This sounds like a lot to ask for in a $4.25 sandwich. But we
weren’t disappointed at Hanco’s, a cheery báhn mì shop in Carroll Gardens.

Deconstructing our sandwich (the Classic, “spicy”), we found Vietnamese ham, the deliciously off-putting, whitish, classic paté, ground pork, jalapeno, cucumber, cilantro, carrot, daikon, mayonnaise, and Sriracha hot sauce. The meats add varying degrees of sweetness and saltiness while the shredded carrot and daikon bring a pickle-y flair. A bit heavy on the mayo, we enjoyed our báhn mì with a coconut bubble tea.

Despite having three kinds of meat, this is not a leaden sandwich. Hanco’s báhn mì is filled generously but appropriately. Crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside, the toasted french bread is weightless. (Some baguettes substitute rice flour for some of the bread’s wheat flour). The bread doesn’t overwhelm the ingredients, which harmonize while maintaining their own unique flavors. Considered sandwich construction keeps the fresh, evenly-sliced fillings from becoming too unruly. If you’ve ever tried to recreate a classic báhn mì at home, you’ll appreciate this delicate balance even more.

Hanco’s
85 Bergen Street
718-858-6818

Originally published on Until Monday: Brooklyn