Ranging from the size of a Munchkin to that of a softball, the Sicilian croquette, arancini di riso, can be found in many authentic pizzerias and Italian specialty food shops from Williamsburg to Bay Ridge. Served warm as an appetizer or snack, these rice balls are made with saffron-scented arborio rice and are filled with some combination of ground beef, ham, shrimp, peas, cheese, or mushrooms. Eggs help to bind the cooked rice balls, which are coated in fine breadcrumbs and fried until golden brown. Arancini di riso are typically served with lemon wedges or tomato sauce.

When the Arabs ruled Sicily in the tenth century, they introduced rice to Sicilian cuisine. Arancini have been a Sicilian staple ever since. They get their name from arancia, meaning orange in Italian, which the rice balls remotely resemble. Today the arancini made in western Sicily are round while those made in eastern Sicily are often conical.

The process of making rice balls is fairly labor intensive. Instead, pick up some delicious ones from the charmingly surly gentlemen at A&S Pork Store (2 for $1.50). On my last visit, they had ricotta and ham versions. While I usually like my fried food straight out of the fryer, their arancini were creamy, delicate and delicious.

A&S Pork Store
274 Fifth Avenue

Originally published on Until Monday: Brooklyn