Sara Hohn – Food… Brooklyn & Beyond

Stan’s Place feels the way my romanticized New Orleans does. With its high ceilings, creeping plants, warm brick and dark wood accents, and the sunlight playing off the warm copper bar, diners enjoy a lolling blues and jazz soundtrack with classic versions of French, Creole and Cajun cooking. The phrase painted on the back wall of the restaurant says it all – “Slo’ Down, Relax & Enjoy.” And it would be hard not to. The vibe at Stan’s Place is one part Cajun roadhouse, one part Vieux Carré and one part “drop by and stay awhile.”

Chef Rob McManus, a Katrina survivor, specializes in “authentic Creole and progressive Lousiana dishes.” Think of any classic New Orleans dish and Stan’s Place serves it: crab cakes, gumbo, red beans ‘n’ rice, jambalaya, collard greens, shrimp etoufée, blackened catfish, beignets and of course, the renowned po’boy are all on the menu. You can also enjoy several types of Louisiana’s own Abita beer.

In acknowledgement of Mardi Gras and Fat Tuesday on February 20 (the final day of Carnival before the beginning of the Christian holiday season of Lent), I thought I’d indulge in a classic Nawlins-style oyster po’boy. A po’boy is a hot sandwich usually made with fried seafood on a baguette. Stan’s Place serves a hit of a po’boy with peppery cornmeal-crusted oysters, shredded lettuce, tomato and spicy mayonnaise (called “dressed”) with a hint of lemon on a toasted roll. The oysters are huge and not so densely coated that you lose the oyster flavor. I loved that the sandwich didn’t come off too “bready” and the oysters remained the focal point. Stan’s Place po’boys (including shrimp, oyster, catfish, pork and yard-bird versions) are all served with brabants, a potato side dish that was startlingly good. Occasionally when I go out for brunch, I’m served dull, rewarmed potatoes that are unseasoned and lovelessly chopped. But the simple brabant potatoes were perfectly cooked and seasoned.

The po’boy was invented in New Orleans in the early 20th century by two brothers, Benny and Clovis Martin who had a sandwich shop. It soon became an everyday meal for working people. These days a po’boy can be a generic term for a submarine sandwich in New Orleans, as they’re made with any number of ingredients like shrimp, roast beef, rabbit and french fries. The po’boy is not to be confused with the other New Orleans sandwich, the muffaletta, which is usually served cold on a round roll and filled with ham, salami, various cheeses and marinated olives.

Tuesday, February 20, visit Stan’s Place for a Mardi Gras party featuring live New Orleans Hot Jazz and Blues by The Cangeosi Cards. Starting at 6pm, there will be a buffet available for $15 and Abita beer specials — good food and good times the way only New Orleans knows how.

Stan’s Place
411 Atlantic Avenue